BUNNAHABHAIN

Bunna is found on the seashore of Islay….and this nose had been taken right to the very edge. It wreaks of salty seadog, the brine entangled with the ancient oak of the vessel.

Though the delivery is jaded, the oak having that peculiarly glassy feel unique to exhausted malts, there is also no getting away from the fact that this exudes a genteel old-worldliness than one might mistake for a 50-year-old rather than something just about approaching its 30th year. Indeed, it has managed to turn the weariness of the oak into an attribute and at the same times somehow manages to concentrate the richness of the barley tenfold.

Tired and creaking but still has the elegance and wherewithal to finish the job with a salty, malty flourish.

Old school, proper unpeated Bunna - the way it used to be when at its best under Highland

Distillers' ownership. However, this has never been a malt that has aged particularly well and has a habit of starting to fall apart by the time it is about 25 years old. So much to like here, indeed revere: the astonishingly salty nose and, after a faltering start, fabulous concentrated malt, thick and lush, on delivery But after the midpoint, balance is compromised as the tannin notes fail to find a

balancing malty answer. This is probably about four-years past where I’d really like it to be. Occasionally truly outstanding very old Bunnas make it through - but it is a rare phenomenon. This is borderline brilliant. Incidentally, I stayed at the Bunnahabhain distillery

on holiday back in 1991: it was truly the last real vacation I ever had.